6 Catch a Wave

CHAPTER 1 The Duke SOME PEOPLE LIKE TO RIDE HORSES OR DRIVE FAST CARS. AND OTHER PEOPLE LIKE TO RIDE WAVES. People started surfing a long time ago. In the 1400s, people in the group of islands we now call Hawaii surfed as a sport. But one person made surfing famous. His name was Duke Kahanamoku. Duke was born in Honolulu, Hawaii, in 1890. When he was a boy, he loved swimming and surfing. He also liked sleeping. In 1912, at the Olympics in Stockholm, Sweden, he fell asleep before his race! Everyone had to wait while he put on his swimsuit. He swam very fast. He broke the world record. At the 1920 Olympics in Belgium, he broke the world record again. Duke was the most famous Hawaiian in the world. At that time, surfing was not popular outside of Hawaii. But Duke showed many people how to surf. In Australia, he made a surfboard out of a tree. Then he took a woman, Isabel Letham, on the surfboard with him. She was the first Australian surfer. Duke showed many people in the United States how to surf, too. People were more and more interested in this fun sport. Duke had an interesting life and was very popular. He won many swimming races. He was in movies in Hollywood. He started the first surf club in Oahu, Hawaii. And for more than 25 years, he was the sheriff of Honolulu. Today, he is called "the Father of Surfing."

有些人喜欢骑马或开快车。 还有一些人喜欢冲浪。 人们很早以前就开始冲浪了。 在15世纪，我们现在称之为夏威夷的群岛上的人们把冲浪作为一项运动。 但是有一个人让冲浪出名了。 他的名字是公爵卡哈纳莫库。 杜克于1890年出生在夏威夷的檀香山。 当他还是个孩子的时候，他喜欢游泳和冲浪。 他也喜欢睡觉。1912年，在瑞典斯德哥尔摩奥运会上，他在比赛前睡着了！他穿上泳装时，每个人都得等着。 他游得很快。他打破了世界纪录。 在1920年比利时奥运会上，他再次打破了世界纪录。 杜克是世界上最有名的夏威夷人。 当时，冲浪在夏威夷以外的地方并不流行。 但杜克向很多人展示了如何冲浪。 在澳大利亚，他用一棵树做了一个冲浪板。 然后，他带着一个叫伊莎贝尔·莱瑟姆的女人一起上了冲浪板。 她是澳大利亚第一位冲浪者。 杜克也向许多美国人展示了如何冲浪。 人们对这项有趣的运动越来越感兴趣。 杜克的生活很有趣，很受欢迎。 他赢得了许多游泳比赛。 他在好莱坞拍电影。 他在夏威夷的瓦胡岛创办了第一家冲浪俱乐部。 在超过25年的时间里，他一直担任檀香山的治安官。 今天，他被称为“冲浪之父”。

CHAPTER 2 Hanging Ten SURFING IS FUN, BUT DIFFICULT. WHAT DO YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT SURFING? Very good surfers can "hang ten." That is, they can surf with both their feet all ten toes at the front of the surfboard. This is not easy. Before you hang ten, you have to learn a lot. First, a new surfer has to choose the right surfboard. It should be long and thick because a long, thick surfboard floats very well. It helps you keep your balance on the waves. Next, you have to choose the right place. A good place for a new surfer is a flat, sandy beach. It's good if it isn't busy. You don't want to hit other surfers with your surfboard. And, you don't want their surfboards to hit you! What do you wear when you surf? You can wear a swimsuit, but in cold water, a wetsuit is best. A wetsuit keeps your body warm so you can be in the water for a long time. The first thing you must practice before you begin to surf is "popping up." You put your surfboard down on the sand. Next, you lie on it with your face down. Then you get up onto your feet very fast, or "pop up." You must practice this many times before you take your surfboard into the ocean.

冲浪很有趣，但也很困难。 关于冲浪你需要知道些什么？ 非常好的冲浪者可以“挂十”。 也就是说，他们可以用两只脚冲浪，所有的十个脚趾都在冲浪板的前面。 这并不容易。在你挂十挂之前，你必须学习很多东西。 首先，新手必须选择合适的冲浪板。 它应该又长又厚，因为又长又厚的冲浪板漂浮起来很好。 它能帮助你在海浪中保持平衡。 接下来，你必须选择正确的地方。 一个冲浪新手的好去处是平坦的沙滩。 如果不繁忙就好了。 你不想用你的冲浪板撞到其他冲浪者。 而且，你不希望他们的冲浪板撞到你吧！你冲浪时穿什么？ 你可以穿泳衣，但在冷水中，潜水服是最好的。 潜水服可以让你的身体保持温暖，这样你就可以在水里呆很长时间。 在你开始冲浪之前，你必须练习的第一件事是“弹出”。 你把冲浪板放在沙滩上。 接下来，你脸朝下躺在上面。 然后你很快站起来，或者“pop up”。 在你把冲浪板带到海里之前，你必须多次练习。

You are almost ready to go into the ocean and ride those waves. OK, only very small ones! But there are two more things to do. First, you must wax the top of your surfboard. This is so your feet don't slip. Then, you must put the leash from your surfboard on your leg. You are going to fall, and you don't want to lose your surfboard. Now you can "get wet"— this is surfer language for getting in the water with your surfboard. You paddle out into the water, behind where the waves break. When you see a wave come, paddle until the wave is under the surfboard, and then pop up. Ride the wave straight to the beach. You surfed! Good surfers want a long ride. They don't surf straight to the beach. That is a short ride. They surf across the water from one side to the other and ride the "face" of the wave. If the surfers are very good, and practice for many years, they can ride inside the "tube" of a big wave. How do you know if there are good waves for you to surf? Go on your computer! Many popular surf beaches have surfcams. These are video cameras that show how high and how fast the waves are. Now get wet, practice a lot, and maybe you can hang ten!

你几乎已经准备好进入海洋，驾驭那些海浪。 好吧，只有非常小的！但还有两件事要做。 首先，你必须给冲浪板上蜡。 这样你的脚就不会滑倒了。 然后，你必须把冲浪板上的皮带系在腿上。 你要掉下去了，你可不想失去你的冲浪板。 现在你可以“get wet”了——这是冲浪者用冲浪板进入水中的语言。 你划到水里，在波浪破碎的地方。 当你看到波浪来的时候，划桨直到波浪在冲浪板下面，然后弹出。 乘风直冲沙滩。 你上网!优秀的冲浪者想要长时间的冲浪。 他们不会直接冲到海滩上去。 那是很短的路程。他们从水的一边冲浪到另一边，骑在波浪的“脸”上。 如果冲浪者非常优秀，并且练习多年，他们就可以在大浪的“管”里骑行。 你怎么知道是否有适合你冲浪的好浪呢？ 打开你的电脑！许多受欢迎的冲浪海滩都有冲浪相机。 这些摄像机可以显示海浪的高度和速度。 现在把身体弄湿，多练习，也许你能挂十次！

CHAPTER 3 Surfer's Paradise YOU CAN SURF ON BEAUTIFUL BEACHES ALL AROUND THE WORLD. Many surfers want to surf the waves at Pipeline in Oahu, Hawaii. There, the waves are more than six meters high. Oahu is the most famous surfing place in the world, but it's very dangerous. Sometimes the best surfers get hurt or die here. Another dangerous place is Mavericks in California, USA. Only the best surfers try to surf here. You can't paddle out because the waves are too high and too strong. Someone has to take you out to the waves with a jet ski. Then, you wait for one of the 25-meter waves and try not to fall. A very good surfer, Mark Foo, died here in 1994. For a very long ride, surfers go to Jeffreys Bay, South Africa. The waves there are called Supertubes. Very good surfers can ride these waves for 300 meters. In Europe, the best place to surf is Hossegor, near Biarritz, France. Many popular surf beaches are near small, sleepy towns, but not Hossegor. In 1854, Napoleon III and his wife, Empress Eugénie, had a very large house there. Today, the rich and famous live there, too. You can surf in the morning and look for movie stars on the beach in the afternoon. Then in the evening, eat fantastic French food and go to sleep in Napoleon's house— today, it's a hotel!

你可以在世界各地美丽的海滩上冲浪。 许多冲浪者都想在夏威夷瓦胡岛的管道冲浪。 在那里，海浪有六米多高。 瓦胡岛是世界上最著名的冲浪胜地，但那里非常危险。 有时最好的冲浪手会在这里受伤或死亡。 另一个危险的地方是美国加州的小牛。 只有最好的冲浪运动员才会在这里冲浪。 你不能划桨出海，因为海浪太高太强了。 总得有人带你去玩水上摩托艇。 然后，你等待一个25米高的海浪，尽量不要掉下去。 1994年，一位非常优秀的冲浪者Mark Foo在这里去世。 冲浪者们要去南非的杰弗里斯湾进行长途旅行。 那里的波被称为超级管。 非常好的冲浪者可以在这些海浪上滑行300米。 在欧洲，冲浪的最佳地点是法国比亚里茨附近的霍塞戈尔。 许多受欢迎的冲浪海滩都在安静的小镇附近，但霍塞格尔除外。 1854年，拿破仑三世和他的妻子皇后欧格萨尼在那里有一所非常大的房子。 今天，富人和名人也住在那里。 你可以早上冲浪，下午在海滩上寻找电影明星。 晚上，吃美味的法国食物，然后在拿破仑的房子里睡觉——今天，它是一家酒店！

Portugal is a good place to watch surfing. The waves are much too high for most surfers. In January 2013, Hawaiian surfer Garrett McNamara surfed a 30-meter wave off the coast of Nazaré. That may be the world record for the highest wave surfed! Did you know you can see the Statue of Liberty and go surfing on the same day? There's a good surf beach in Montauk, only three hours from New York City by train. Or how about riding a camel to the beach? The coast of Morocco is next to the hot, dry Sahara Desert. There are not a lot of surf towns or hotels along the coast. Some people bring their own food and water and everything they need. But the waves are some of the best in the world. How about surfing near a jungle? On Tamarindo Beach in Costa Rica, you can hear monkeys and toucans as you wait for the next wave. And the water is warm, so you won't need a wetsuit. The Gold Coast of Australia is one of the best places in the world to surf, for good surfers and for new ones, too. Maybe it's the place for you!

葡萄牙是观看冲浪的好地方。 对大多数冲浪者来说，海浪太高了。 2013年1月，夏威夷冲浪者加勒特·麦克纳马拉（Garrett McNamara）在拿撒勒纳海岸外冲上了30米高的巨浪。 这可能是冲浪者最高浪的世界纪录！你知道你可以在同一天看自由女神像和冲浪吗？ 蒙托克有一个很好的冲浪海滩，从纽约坐火车只要三个小时。 或者骑骆驼去海滩怎么样？ 摩洛哥海岸紧挨着炎热干燥的撒哈拉沙漠。 沿海没有很多冲浪小镇或酒店。 有些人自己带食物、水和他们需要的一切。 但这里的海浪是世界上最好的。 在丛林附近冲浪怎么样？ 在哥斯达黎加的塔玛林多海滩，当你等待下一波海浪时，你可以听到猴子和巨嘴鸟的声音。 而且水是温暖的，所以你不需要潜水服。 澳大利亚的黄金海岸是世界上最适合冲浪的地方之一，对冲浪高手和新手来说都是如此。 也许这就是适合你的地方！

CHAPTER 4 Surf Culture SUN, SWIMSUITS, AND SURFING! Most people can't surf on a surfboard made from a tree like Duke Kahanamoku did. So, in the 1920s, some people made new, bigger surfboards. These boards floated well and were easier for surfers to use. And, more people had cars. It was easier to take a surfboard from beach to beach in California and look for good waves. So, more people started surfing. Two Hollywood movies showed this new surfer culture to the world. In 1959, Gidget showed beautiful young men and women having fun, falling in love, going to the beach, and surfing. Many young people in the USA wanted that kind of life. They bought surfboards and swimsuits. The beaches in California and Hawaii were packed! Then, in 1966, The Endless Summer came out. This movie was very different from Gidget. It shows two men from California looking for the "perfects wave." The men travel to beautiful places all over the world. People wanted to see those places, too. Today, there are popular surfing movies, too. The 2012 movie Chasing Mavericks is about Jay Moriarty. At age 16, he was the youngest person to surf the dangerous Mavericks waves.

第四章冲浪文化太阳、泳衣和冲浪！大多数人不能像Duke Kahanamoku那样在用树做的冲浪板上冲浪。 所以，在20世纪20年代，一些人制造了新的、更大的冲浪板。 这些冲浪板漂浮起来很好，对冲浪者来说更容易使用。 而且，越来越多的人拥有汽车。 在加利福尼亚，带着冲浪板从一个海滩到另一个海滩，寻找好的海浪要容易得多。 所以，越来越多的人开始冲浪。 两部好莱坞电影向世界展示了这种新的冲浪者文化。 1959年，《Gidget》展示了美丽的年轻男女玩得开心、坠入爱河、去海滩和冲浪。 许多美国年轻人想要那种生活。 他们买了冲浪板和泳衣。 加利福尼亚和夏威夷的海滩上挤满了人！1966年，《无尽的夏天》问世。 这部电影和《小淘气》很不一样。 广告中，两名来自加州的男子正在寻找“完美波浪”。 男人们去世界各地美丽的地方旅行。 人们也想看看那些地方。 今天，也有流行的冲浪电影。 2012年的电影《追逐小牛队》是关于杰伊·莫里亚蒂的。 16岁时，他是在危险的小牛队海浪中冲浪的最年轻的人。